Madrona / Leschi
By Mary Park
The Madrona and Leschi neighborhoods present a quintessential Seattle study in contrasts. Ethnically and economically diverse, they contain both modest bungalows and grand lakefront mansions; sunny beaches and woodsy ravines with waterfalls and ferns; a quiet, almost small-town ambience and pockets of big-city sophistication. Spreading down both sides of an ancient volcanic ridge perched above Lake Washington, these east-central neighborhoods offer some of the most dramatic views in the city, as well as lovely parks, historic homes and small but lively business districts.
Like many of Seattle's close-in districts, Madrona and Leschi are undergoing transformation. Their west-facing hillsides were traditionally home to middle-class African-Americans, but over the past 10 years have attracted white professionals and families drawn by (formerly) low housing prices and proximity to downtown. Yet the area has been spared much of the hostility that has accompanied development in the Central District, perhaps because it has always included wealthier, whiter enclaves near the lake and historically black residents to the west. The juxtaposition has had its tensions-long ago the Black Panthers drilled on the Madrona Playfield, for instance-but community leadership succeeded in overcoming the most rancorous divisions. Today, the character of the area is changing, yet residents remain proud of its diverse heritage.
Local housing includes gracious Queen Anne, Victorian and Craftsman houses lining the ridge, and more humble bungalows and mid-century residences along the western border shared with the Central District. Near the lake, striking architect-designed homes range from mock medieval mansions to Northwest variations on the International style. Reflecting this historic east and west division, the real estate market features an unusually broad array of prices, with two-bedroom, two-bath homes starting at $375,000 and topping out at well over one million dollars. With a median price of almost $738,000, there are few if any bargains left, but a walkable urban lifestyle has kept properties selling briskly. Rents average $1,500 a month for a two-bedroom apartment-but compared to Madison Park to the north, Madrona and Leschi's prices can still look reasonable. Downtown is 25 minutes away by bus and even less by car, and the area's geographic location between I-5 and Highway 520 eases commutes to points farther east.
Home to mostly single-family residences, Madrona nonetheless boasts restaurants ranging from funky to chic, with the venerable Hi-Spot lining 'em up weekend mornings for fresh-baked scones and green eggs and ham. The artsy main drag along 34th Street is only five blocks long, yet it's home to numerous studios, cafés, and shops-even the designer cupcakes of Cupcake Royale and award-winning Wilridge Winery, based in a resident's cellar and closed to the public. Nearby, Madrona's public library branch sits in a renovated firehouse across the street from an innovative K-8 public school. In front, the Richard Beyers sculpture "Peaceable Kingdom" depicts a life-size lion, wolf, sheep and lamb coexisting, embodying the spirit of a neighborhood known for its tolerance.
Leschi has served as a recreational hub for Seattleites since the 1890s, when a cable car from downtown brought urban dwellers to a lakeside amusement park, casino and zoo. Surrounded by historic beach cottages, its two-block business district today feels like a laid-back beach resort. A small independent grocery, bike shop, marina and deli make this a popular spot for boaters and cyclists. Diners savor stunning Lake Washington and Cascade views at upscale meat purveyor Daniel's Broiler and neighborhood hangout BluWater Bistro.
But the jewel in the Madrona-Leschi crown is its linked trio of Frederick Olmsted-designed parks: Frink Park is a densely wooded ravine winding down to the lake from a dramatic viewpoint high above; charming, old-fashioned Leschi Park showcases a rolling expanse of lawn as well as old sequoia and tulip trees; and 31-acre Madrona Park features a swimming beach with lifeguards in summer, a lakefront jogging path and a lushly wooded hillside with hiking trails. Sewn together by leafy Lake Washington Boulevard, these scenic spaces embody the Olmsted ideal: islands of nature amid the urban fray, easily accessible and available to all.
